Model Progression

Hey guys,

Above is a photo of my model, still need to carve out a few minor details but you get the idea with this photo.

FOAM MODEL TIP
-Something i learned at TAFE last year while doing a tolerance exercise involving blue foam.
Most of us have  drawn out our shapes on bank pad paper, stuck them onto blue foam and tried to cut around the edge.....My suggestion is simple, Instead of using paper use PASTE BOARD to stencil out your shapes, and use push pins to keep it in place, so when you go to use the hot wires you can cut right to the edge as the hot wire wont cut through paste board or anything thicker. This way u get a PERFECT cut along the edge.

-Kyle

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fatigue

i tried to steer away from the hearing aid look but i couldn't get the curve thin enough. there's a button on the side which enables you to adjust the level of the intensity of your activity, which depending on that info, the device beeps/vibrates on silent every so hours.
foam kept breaking, could've done it with wood.

tip: sand very small interior spaces with a pen (or something smaller) wrapped in sandpaper

-Annie

weekly post

tips:

1. Don't try to do it at home, the dust will kill you!!

2. Sand it slowly and softly for more smooth surface.

3. Buy a sanding block=]

Nancy M

First attempt at soft model

Hey all, this is my first attempt at my soft model for my fatigue testing unit. I like the size but im still unhappy with the way it is held, I think it isn't comfortable enough to be used.

MODELING TIP:

My modelling tip for tonight is to utilize colour in your model as much as possible. Its amazing how much adding a small bit of acrylic paint to your foam model to highlight areas or different surfaces helps give someone a much better idea of the products look and feel. For this to be done well the surface texture needs to be very smooth and sometimes different parts need to be painted separately. I hope this helps someone.

- Ryan

Busy Beacon = Tetrahedron

Howdy, below is an updated image of my concept, the Busy Beacon. As you can see the main body (the Tri-ball Beacon) takes on the form of a tetrahedron. Below is my model making progress to machine this shape. It's important i test out these machining operations now on my foam as my final will be from wood, therefore i will undergone the same process. Previous attempts to hand carve the tetrahedron failed spectacularly - vertices did not line up, faces intersected themselves etc.

The photos below show my milling machine creating the tetrahedron. It is supported through he model via a shaft, connected to an indexing head. The indexing head allows me to rotate the tetrahedron angularly about two axis. Note: the actual body still needs to be sanded down from this basic shape, however the basic shape determines the accuracy of the final sanded form.

Hot Tip or maybe not: If you ever find yourself machining parts, within the lathe or milling machine, support the model via a common shaft or impaled item. You can therefore vice, calm ro chuck the impaled items, to position your part. However, sticking shaft or blocks into foam pieces etc. can create unwanted holes, der. As my shaft has intersected my tetrahedron, i am using the remaining hole as a design feature. Furthermore it's important to think about the manufacturing or machining process to create your design and design and refine with your manufacturing capabilities in mind.

Catch

Daniel Dobbo.

rain gauge out in saturday rain

here is my soft model in progress. i still need to refine the top (funnel)section which has been quite difficult.
onething i've found that has been great is to wrap sand paper around a pento sand small radius's.. which decreases the chance of the sandpapercreasing and scratching the foam. also using a serrated knife makescutting foam at home easy, or slicing small amounts off.
phoebe .L

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Week 10

tip no.1: aluminum is really soft so you can bend it and more importantly sand it quite easily. they come in sheets so good for making thin objects which might be hard with wood and impossible with foam. tip no.2: go see WALL•E, it's just too good.

Wei-Pai

Laura

My foam modelling tip:

If you attempt to use the disk sander, hold on VERY tight as it may pull the model out of your hand and injure it. It is probably easier to use a rasp if the model is curved like mine.

I went with the last picture I posted. This is a desk ornament to sit on the desk in a job interview. The control side faces the interviewer and the other side; (microphones) the interviewee. The whole unit will be black and the coloured panel is the display which would only be turned on after the interviewee exists the room. This tests for levels of enthusiasm and truthfulness.

Laura.

model

Well, this is my first model. I think although it is small, its still too chunky for a travelers pocket so the next one will be alot smaller.

My tip:
For nice lines and details in your model, take a piece of sand paper and fold it in half. Then use the edge to get into the corners and dig into the foam to create some nice lines.

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Blue Foam Modeling Tips

Hey Guys here is the spherical part of my mode with an indent which interacts with the saliva swab.

I guess my tip is to take it slow. i stuffed up my first attempt on the model because i did not take my time. luckily the sphere was cut into 2 halves so i have 2 attempts at making my indent. Do as much as you can with the lathe, rasp and hot wire cutter and then start sanding to get an even surface which does not split.

Joseph

Model progress...

So ye I came in on Friday ready to lathe my model out before class becuase i knew it wouldnt take to long, as the shape is pretty simple (as seen in the pic above^). And when i got to the workshop door i saw the notice and remembered that the workshop wouldnt be open, so i went home. I was going to try making it by hand from the left over foam I had at home, but i knew that would end in a Fail, so I didnt bother.

My tip is use the lathe to make perfectly round objects because otherwise you will Fail! ...unless you spend a lot of time making it perfectly round by hand? but I think thats pretty pointless unless it cant be done on the lathe for some reason.

Marco

Modello di concentrazione

Buonasera ragazzi!

Il mio modello per il mio topico concentrazione!
Sorry must be the pizza that I have yet to eat getting me influenced here. Anyways this is my model for measuring concentration. Its rough but you get the idea (i hope). It is a bit too big for your hand unless your a gorilla, goes good around your bicep ok and I'm assuming around your ankle it would be too loose. My next model I will try and concentrate on making it from material so it clings around a person much more securely.

ora voglio maniare mia pizza

Ciao raggazze *wink wink*

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Model Development

Hey Guys,

As you can see, ive had to go down an alternate path for my model...sewing! I bought the bra and bonds top, and have set out and tried to attach other details on them to illustrate the different fabric electrodes and fibre sensors. The heart rate/blood pressure band on the male version still needs to be sewn, as well as some other details on the bra.

As for my tip of the week...dont underestimate the time it takes at Spotlight! There will always be those little old ladies in front of you buying meters and meters of random-patterned material to make goodness-knows-what and taking their time about it- regardless of the fact that you're standing there wanting 32 cents worth of binding and running late for work!!

Also, dont misjudge the 'simple' things when modelmaking...they can take *alot* longer than what you originally think!! o_O

Good luck with it all!!

Jessica

Model update

Here is my food-poisoning dipstick attached to a keyring. I made the sleeve using a heat gun to soften the plastic which could still use a little work to clean up.

tip:

When modeling with soft (read:HOT) plastic, make sure there is enough extra material so that you have enough leverage to shape the plastic. And the plastic takes a while to cool, so be patient and keep holding it in the correct form.

Sunny

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Measuring device for Visual Appeal

ok guys so here is 2 soft models of my product. they are slightly different, mainly in the thickness and outer radius. The hardest part about this was trying to work all the moving parts in foam. tip: the thinner you go with your design in foam the more chances that when u create moving parts that the force as you push the wire/toothpick will pull and create holes in your perfectly sanded product.
 
in the photos i've placed a compact makeup mirror to show scale. as one of the specifications in the brief is for the product to be slim and able to fit into a pocket or hand bag.
enjoy.
 
kaitlin x
 

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Hunger-O-Meter!

As with a few people, haven't got stuck into my model yet because i was away and then the shop being closed on Friday but i've got a pretty solid idea of what i've got to do and what my final product will look like... something like the above picture, just a drink bottle with a base piece which for this model will remain as one, but for our second model i'll have them as separate pieces...

> My tip for the workshop is to call the uni on 9903 2000 and ask to be
> transferred to Mario in the design faculty and make sure he's there...
>
> cheers
>
> dan
>

Andrew van der Merwe

this is where im at with two models of my power board module and my display console. the modules are blue foam covered with bog, this is one modelling tip, the console is a cardboard piece in the right arc that has also been bogged but not too well. tips:

>sanding blue foam with water and wet and dry will give you a much smoother surface
>blue foam cannot be spray painted or primed. ever. deliberately melting a bit of exposed blue foam using these is a worse idea. it doesnt stop melting for days and if you bog over it it will pull the completely solid bog down! its pretty extreme.
>always keep your sketches in front of your model and constantly refer to them otherwise you will be tempted to change the proportions as you go and end up with something that doesnt look as good.

Andrew vdm

Initial Models + Tip

Hi guys. here is a few photos of my initial models. The one on the left is the 'Calm' form and the one on the right is the 'Angry' form. i also put some human scale in there so hopefully you get an idea of their size.
 
 
Blue Foam tip:
This one may be a little obvious to most.
For round forms, always use the lathe. although it may not seem too hard to make even the smallest of things round by hand. In reality it is not as easy as you first think. From a simple cylinder up to a really complex cylindrical based form, or even a sphere. Use the lathe. It is more effective, accurate and in most cases faster.
 
i hope that helps at least one person. have a great weekend guys. cya soon.
 
Nick C

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Foam models require patience!

Hey guys, I've managed to make a fair bit of progress with my foam model, but that was only after at least 3 failed attempts and much frustration. Unfortunately (for some unknown reason??) the workshop was closed on friday, so, not only did I waste time and money driving to caufield, but this also meant that I had to try and sand the main game block by hand and getting it square required a lot of patience lol. Finally though I was able to get a reasonable result.

Also, in regards to my tip, as you can see I've got a lot of holes in my model, and I did try drilling the first one; big mistake! Its probably common sense but drilling into blue foam tends to break the foam around the hole and this looks very messy. So if you have to make holes use circular objects like nails, pens, bolts etc and simply push them into the foam. 

Jonathon

Foam Model

This my foam model so far. Its really rough at the moment but I will be sanding and shaping it down to size.

 

My tip is that symmetry is extremely hard to accurately achieve. So it pays to pre cut your model in an accurate symmetrical shape to make it easier.

>WILL

ok try again heres the photo!

Jason T

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MAGNETIC BLOCKS

Modeling Tip- 

 A block of foam wrapped in sanding paper makes a great tool for sanding and shaping foam.

Perspex breaks easily when scored and bent. If the cut is not exactly straight it sands easily with a sheet of corse sand paper on a flat surface.

model and tip thingy

alright heres my model so far. it swings into itself to halve its size to fit in pocket, yet to make the moving part and details but almost there.
tips, like jeff said having a square measured block to start with helps alot, focus on accuracy as soon as you can to save work at the end.

Jason T

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Model WIP

Here's my model so far - pretty simple, blue foam turned on the lathe. Discs will be added soon and a pin to hold it all together.

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Burn Patch

So here is my first attempt. I have burned three sheets of thin acetate toghether with some aloe vera gel in between to symbolise the photochromic material which will change colour proportionally to UV absorbtion.
TIP: not sure if aneone is using acetate or any plastics but to melt it an iron is way too hot it eats through the plastic and makes a mess. I found a hair straightener on lowest heat worked well.
-Nev

modelling tip

oops, forgot my modelling tip:

check, double check, recheck, double check the recheck and check again.

if something can go wrong it will go wrong, if it doesn't go wrong count yourself lucky.

and another one... the fast disc sander is not 100% accurate.
when you adjust the degree back to square, use a square! zero is NOT zero that machine (it should be 0.5 degrees or something)
i have ruined a lot of models because i forgot to check :(

and another one i just remembered...
the further from the centre of the disc sander you go, the less flat your model will be, the sandpaper can start to peel up on the sides
and the larger rotation accentuates this! try to sand stuff in the middle.

this is what happens when you fail modelmaking :P (don't do it... just dont :()

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Time Tube.

Hey!

haven't had a chance to get into the workshop yet... due to other commitments and it being closed on friday...
anywho, since i don't have a model to post up, thought i'd atleast show you what my design will look like
and why it looks the way it does.

my project is based around managing/observing time, i've developed a 'time tube' device which basically displays
how much work you've done on a particular goal and how much you should have completed based on the the time till it's due date.
As per one of robbie's brilliant idea's, i decided to place four time tubes on a dumb waiter of sorts.
essentially, four (or more!?) of the tubes can be placed in this rotating stand.
The idea behind this is that you can quickly check your progress by spinning the stand and picking out any large discrepancies in progress etc.
It also theoretically joins all four tubes into one big progress meter but with four different levels of progress on the one bar.

progress levels are manually adjusted by the user (approximate) and each tube glows its own colour. the colours not only have the purpose of separating goals, they should also 'meld' together when the stand is spun creating a neat effect and hopefully develop a stronger bond between the user and time.

one last thing i'd like to ask:

how many of you have a wall, or a flat vertical surface within arms reach of your desk?
i would like the unit to be wall mounted but i'm not sure how many students actually have walls around their desk.

maybe you have yours in the middle of your room... like an island of pain.... and study...?

here's a few pictures of what i've been ranting about:

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Cuboic TM device

hi guys,
this is my cuboic design for the time management device.
i think i need to change the paper that i'm using to stick on the my model.
first i have try to make my model out of the foam but it didn't look as nice as when i used wood.
and when i used the wood i can see clearly the weight and how the device sit on the table.

Tip:

if you want to make model out of wood but you don't have a right thickness, you can try to stick more than 1 wood and get the thickness that you want. But remember, make sure that the direction of the wood grain is placed differently.

-yani-

FoAM model

Hmmm i think i will be using different materials for my next model...very tricky!

-Sarah

Hearing device - Model

hi guys,
This is my final model for my "chosen concept"(not the final one of course), there is still some little details i might have to add, apart from that this is pretty much it. For the LCD screen at the back I'd tried to stick a piece of printed out paper which reflect to the reflective surface of a LCD screen (by using illustrator/ gradient fill) , however because of the round surface of my model its hard to stick a flat piece of paper down, and it might wreck the overall look of the model.

Tip:
if you have separated parts for your device design i highly recommend you to cut it out first stick it with double sided tape and then shape your desired form or shape out. This will make your life a lot more easier and also looks better.

Beichen :D

Model Progress!

Hey guys,
This is where i'm at so far with the first model. To save time for the 1st model, ive used a simple black bonds singlet for the 'housing' of my design components (sensors, interface etc) but im intending to look for a suitable material and sew my own undergarment for the final model (or at least stitch onto an existing garment).

The half-finished model, as you can see is fairly basic at this stage, as im looking into styling it towards my specific market (both male and female office workers/wearing neat attire etc). Im planning to develop my 'Spinotech' sensors making them thinner and with some detail. The interface is yet to come!

Modeling tips:

Heres a great way to put fine details into your foam models (ie. part lines etc): 1. cut a small piece of fine wet and dry sandpaper
2. then fold the piece in half, then half again, with the grit side outside
3. use the corner edge of the sandpaper and you will have a gritty point to sand out fine grooves with several passes.
This works very well and will give a very clean sharp cut.

If you have any suggestions id love to hear them!!

Andy

oops!

oops i forgot to actually attach my file lol :P
 
- Marisa

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